Richard Sandler's exquisite NY photography spans decades.
Many, many more on his website.
Richard Sandler's exquisite NY photography spans decades.
Many, many more on his website.
Joe picks up Arianne. They're off to the airport.
I decide to branch out from the Playa and head to and beyond the city proper. There are orange groves between us and a ton of loud guard dogs, most of which are behind fences. I find a "mountain" with a portion of castle atop it. Looking down from the other side you can get a good look at the whole of Oliva.
I don't yet know the cities beyond, but vow to get out to them.
There's a stray cat on the property who had kittens a couple weeks before I arrived. Arianne calls her Nina. I get along with her much better than I do with Blanche, my charge.
For a late lunch, I discover Ca Fran. Civilized portions of local foods. Solid Vermouth. I teach the young barkeep to make a martini. Mid-day, I'm the only customer and feel comfortable bringing out my keyboard to do some writing.
When I get back, Arianne has packed and is ready to go, despite there being another 16 hours before Joe picks her up in his taxi, she sits on the couch, hands folded in her lap, waiting.
I decide to press my employer on her past. I find out:
She never explained what they were after. Why they'd be following her.
When I ask why Abu Dhabi, she says it's been a lifelong dream. I ask, why, then, are you only staying 4 days. An answer in Maltese comes. When I ask what that means, she stares.
In fact, each time she speaks to me, I feel she's trying to gauge whether I can be trusted — not with the house, but with her answer.
At that moment, I know something very bad is going to happen. Don't know where or why.
After the sun sinks, wild dogs can be heard fighting and barking through the night.
Last night as I tried to sleep — the house is a two bedroom — I could hear Arianne. She was mumbling to herself while pacing. At least that's what it sounded like. I heard her rifle through the kitchen drawer and imagined her choosing a butter knife with which to finish me. I fall back asleep.
I'm an early riser but she even took that away from me by being an earlier riser. I wait until I hear her leave and then get up and head out myself.
I walk the beach and surrounding neighbourhoods and wonder how lunch with the landlord-cop is going to go.
I stop at La Botigueta and get some terrific veg, including the best carrots I've ever had. But when I return home, I find that Arianne has already done all the shopping and seems slightly perturbed about my purchase.
She's making rice and fish. As she stirs, she stares out the window. "He's the one that's doing it," she says. I look over her shoulder. In the distance, maybe 400 feet, I see another house. No people. Does she maybe mean the dog?
I change the subject, ask how often she gets to the beach. Does she like the area? She confesses she rarely leaves the house. "Not one more minute in this town," she says.
Mateo arrives and we quickly hit it off. When I tell him I sell records, he immediately starts talking music. I hate talking music but humour him. I also help him with some phone stuff — he's having issues and maybe I know how to fix them. He's no longer concerned about who is going to be staying in his house.
We exchange numbers and when he leaves, I ask Arianne if she wants to buy her plane tickets now. She says we will have to use my phone. I say that's fine, as long as she doesn't use my credit card. Not even a smile.
She explains what she wants: Spain to the Maldives, stopping in Abu Dhabi for four days. Only wants to fly in one direction, no flight longer than six hours. No layovers.
Takes me four hours to figure it out. The fastest I can get rid of her is two days from now. An eternity when your host is armed with a butterknife.
I ask again if maybe she wants to show me around. She declines, muttering a word in a language I don't recognize under her breath.
Along a path I sense someone ahead of me in the bushes. It's Mateo. I say Hi and he walks along beside me so I stop. He needs to talk to me. He points back at the house, saying, "She... what is the word..." He points his finger at his head and swirls it through the air, the universal symbol for scrambled brains.
"Paranoid," I say, and Mateo stabs the air between us.
"That's the word! Paranoid!"
"Yes," I say.
"You'll take care of my house?"
"I'll certainly try," I say.
He nods, offers his hand. We shake and go our separate ways.
Of course, I walk.
Love the colors of the buildings here.
Toronto would have a collective aneurysm if someone painted a building that color.
Great 12 minute doc on Amie Dicke's methods and intentions:
It's easy to find desolation in Los Angeles, if you get up early enough. It's not a late night town.
I remember the first time I'd ever seen a coyote in person was on Hollywood Boulevard about 4:45 in the morning. It was just walking down the Walk of Fame, not a care in the world.
For about 3 and a half years, between 2008 and 2019, I lived all over Los Angeles County. I've been to every location Christopher Thomas photographs in his series, Lost In L.A., but I've never seen it presented like this. Wonderful stuff and lots more behind those links.
Breathtaking home in Jakarta, designed by StudioRK.
Everything is spot on, from the design, to the flooring and railings, door handles and fixtures. The tapestries and artwork, the plants... stunning space.
Here's the full tour:
I spend the morning in Valencia, then buy a ticket to Oliva, about 80km south. While waiting for the bus, I meet an American couple who are heading to Cullera. They are incredulous when they find out I've been hired from Canada to cat sit.
The bus ride is cheap at 8,10 euro, but my mother would say it was the milk run. I almost miss my stop but get the driver to pull over again.
Call Joe the British cabbie, who is expecting me. "Five minutes," he says, and is there in three. "To Arianne's house?" Si, I nod. "Are you good friends?" he asks.
"I've never met her."
A look of concern on his face. Inside, I panic. Something amuck. I should have asked more questions before boarding that plane.
"What's wrong?" I ask.
"I don't understand."
"She's hired me to look after her cat while she travels."
"Didn't you say you were from Canada?!"
"Yes."
"And you're here for 3 months?"
"Yes."
Another puzzling look. Something is definitely amuck. We arrive at the house. I pay him and he asks if he should wait. I tell him no and he drives off.
Locked gate. I consider climbing it, but wait. Ten minutes and out she comes, saying she didn't hear me calling. Is she what I expected? What did I expect? "It's hot, let's go inside." An accent, but not a Spanish one.
She introduces Blanche, the cat. My charge. Instantly, I know she's going to be a nightmare.
Arianne offers lunch and I accept. Fish and rice. The two bedroom house is charming. "How long have you lived here?"
"A few months."
"And you're off on vacation so soon?"
"I'm already on vacation. This isn't my house."
"I'm sorry?"
Arianne rented the house for a year. Paid in advance. After seven months, she wants to leave. "They've found me."
"Who?"
She doesn't answer. The expression on her face is either, "You know who," or "I'm not sure I can trust you with that information." I remember the look on the cabbie's face.
She paces the kitchen holding a butter knife. "Tomorrow, Mateo will join us for lunch."
"Who's Mateo?"
"This is his house. He wants to meet you. He says he never agreed to another 'tenant'. He's not happy I've hired you. He's police. Retired." Great.
"Tomorrow? For lunch?" She nods. "But what time's your flight?" I ask.
"I haven't bought my ticket yet. I was hoping you'd help me with that. No point using my phone. Lets talk about it tomorrow. You should take a walk. Get to know the area."
"Do you want to join me? Show me the area?"
"I've seen enough of this town to last a lifetime," she says.
I walk the beach.
Woke early. Packed, grab a frittata on the way to the train.
Rode 328KM south to Valencia.
Train ride mostly uneventful. Sat next to an American stand-up comic with a sad sack story about losing all his money on his European tour. Didn't laugh once.
Another AirBnB, this one more "factory."
Walked just under 10K. Museums. Basilicas. Much porcelain. Grotesques and gargoyles abound. Delicious Charcuterie and the worst Martini I've ever had. Unimaginably bad.
I am older than the Font Del Túria, but it has me beat in beauty, poise, and bird shit.
I think Valencia is the most beautiful city I've ever seen.
Hit a few bookstores and am impressed with the Spanish editions. Wonderful paper, slick covers, great design. Once again wonder why British editions are so dreadful compared to other countries'.
Taifa Llibres is particularly wonderful, as is Libreria LA Central. Toronto just doesn't have stores like these. Killed by greedy landlords, Heather Reisman, etc. I consider picking up something I know cover-to-cover thinking it'll help learn the language. Jesus' Son? Silly idea. Brain is absolutely useless for learning new things right now.
Walk the streets towards Park Güell, see some great graffiti.
Spend most of the day in the Park and Gaudi's house. Am rather fond of his bedroom.
Head to Elephanta. Meet Anabel Caravaca and am charmed. Write a bad poem, which she takes. Stay way too long, but not long enough, unfortunately. Have to catch a train to Valencia in the morning. Will catch up with her online.
Head home to get some sleep. 11.3KM covered. Lightweight.